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Sketches of Living London
 

SKETCHES OF LIVING LONDON THE BRIXTON ROAD -

10 SEPTEMBER 1896

 

 

The note of the Brixton Road is daughters. Where else in the suburbs will you meet so many pretty, domesticated - but stay: I will do homage to the daughters in good time. Indeed, I will do it all the time. Their praise shall pervade this article as their smiles pervade and irradiate the Brixton-road. If you don’t mind I will begin again.

The Brixton-road starts, southward, from the Church of St. Mark, Kennington. But for a typical view you must walk along it until you find yourself opposite the Russell Tavern. Thence the road curves away southwards, green and sweet, in a perspective of villas, overhanging trees, white lamp-posts, and glittering ’buses and trams. Plane trees, chestnuts, the graceful ash, the laburnum, shrubs, laurels, Virginia creeper, and wisteria now hide and now reveal the windows and porticoes of the houses the embower. Such shady, dewy, fertile gardens I have not seen in the like radius. I should not wonder if the nightingale tries one song here in May. To see a gardener brushing up the first autumn leaves under a group of stately limes you could fancy yourself 20 miles from Charing-cross. Only the long, dull grind of the cable, and the jangle of an approaching tramcar, dissipates the dream. Alas! where will you find an old suburban road that is not being slowly overtaken by the turbid tides that set from the centre? The doctor and the dentist are boldly followed by the music teacher, the registry office, the milliner, the property agent, the piano-tuner, and the lodging-house-keeper. This blister of brass plates and sign-boards has begun in the Brixton-road, but, happily, it is still under control. A very beautiful half-mile of road preserves its carriage drives and park palings, and, save for the democratising trams, its residential calm. After all there are few pleasanter things to contemplate - given a certain mood - than middle-class comfort. The Brixton-road is at once its symbol and sanctuary. For myself, when I walk along these white, select pavements - a lonesome uncared for Londoner - I somehow want to telegraph to my nearest female relations to come at once. The outdoor life of the Brixton-road reflects so clearly those domesticities which some of us “have known long and lost awhile”. I can see indoor Brixton without Professor Röntgen’s assistance, and I imagine myself for the moment a partaker of its decorous pleasures. Some people sneer at them. I do not; neither do I covet them. But if I were other than I am and could accept the Brixton-road, and be accepted by it, I should calculate on having an uncommonly good time. Life looks happy in this great middle-class artery. A character in a new story by Lucas Cleeve is made to say of happiness:- “At the start happiness belonged to the upper classes, then happiness slipped on to the middle classes. The middle classes are happy now. They enjoy themselves. They are educated enough for enjoyment, not over-civilised. The upper classes are now miserable, because they have become epicures, and epicures are rarely satisfied.” I won’t say I accept this, but the Brixton-road doesn’t contradict it. I can quite understand how pleasant it must be to go to church twice regularly on Sundays, wagging a new pair of gloves along the road and chatting with other fellows’ sisters; to belong to a tennis club so select that to belong to it is more important than playing; and to vary the weekly “Cinderella” with the weekly lollipop lecture as arranged by “your indefatigable secretary” on why the Sustentation fund is always falling off; how to pay the debt on the new stove pipe; when the choir outing shall be held; - these topics - and the minister’s salary - never weary. They never weary because the church is the lynch-pin of Brixton society. If you want to see how Brixton “sets” are composed you only have to wait till the church bells begin ringing. Then you will behold the separation of the flocks. Each makes a brave show. I don’t know which is the largest. I don’t know which can show English middle-class girlhood at its sweetest and demurest. How should I? But when on a drear Sunday night I pass the churches in the Brixton-road, and hear the organs rolling, and the sweet voices of the daughters in a gale of song, and see the great lighted windows and the shadows on them of the people in the gallery, I am apt to compress my lips and quicken my pace as I realise that I am not of those cheery companies. But the Brixton-road is not all churches and garden palings. The objective of the ’buses and trams which run to it from the Thames bridges and other directions is the wide, asphalted open space just beyond the railway bridge, and in front of the Bonanza stores. Here is the famous “Electric Avenue”, with its pavements sheltered under glazed projecting roofs, and its prodigal electric lighting. The shops in it are good, and very various in kind. A bookseller and newsagent’s seemed to indicate the literary tastes of the neighbourhood. Here again it is the daughters who are evidently catered for. All the fashion journals and family magazines, and all the “happy home” papers in which Marjorie and Dorothy and Lady Don’t-you-know chatter of dresses and duty, and are equally ready to suggest a wall-paper or soothe a remorse, are here, and nowhere do they sell faster or to more “constant” readers. As for books, I divined the Free Library before I discovered it. My bookseller is too near it. But he can sell Miss Marie Corelli’s novels. That plucky lady has captured Brixton to a daughter. Besides the Electric-avenue, Brixton boasts a Bon Marché. You pronounce it Bun Marsh. I know this, because, not seeing the Brixton one at first, I sidled up to a cultured-looking Brixtonian, and said with my best Brixton-Parisian accent: “Will you direct me to the Bong Marshay?” “The Bun Marsh?” he replied; “certainly; that’s it under the railway bridge.” Altogether, no suburban centre in London has more of gaiety and movement. Here everything glitters. Shop signs, gilt lettering, flags, facias, the green ’buses starting and arriving, the trams slowing as they pass, give brightness and bustle to the scene; while crossing from shop to shop on household errands, or flashing by on their bicycles, the daughters of Brixton pass smiling on their way. It is a pleasant scene. Southward, Brixton-hill climbs to Streatham through its own greenery. To the left the graceful cupola of St. Matthew’s rises above the trees, and the Tate Central Free Library and the new theatre add importance to the spot. Looking about you it is not difficult to forget the road by which you have come, and to fancy you have arrived in the vicinity of some pleasant seaside town.

BRIXTON abridged: an occasional series of short pieces published by the Brixton Society number: 2/96 price: 15p ISBN: 1 873052 09 X

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